Emilie cruises California Flake (II 5.9) high above Avalanche Lake

 

 

 

 

 

In the northeastern corner of New York State, bordered by Quebec, Vermont and Lake Champlain, the six-million acre Adirondack Park is a refuge for wilderness preservation and mountain recreation with a distinctly natural feel. While dense northern forests blanket the landscape, exposed rock slabs and steep cliffs on the Park’s four- and five-thousand foot High Peaks provide a wealth of terrain for technical rock, ice, mixed climbing and backcountry mountaineering.

South Face of Gothics

The High Peaks are a massive dome of anorthosite (often mistaken as granite) traversed by craggy mountain passes. Narrow lakes and rocky streams drain the passes, and exposed cliffs top out hundreds of feet above the dense northern forest. These are spectacular settings with a uniquely Adirondack feel.

 

 

Scenic highways provide easy access to top-rope and multi-pitch climbs in Chapel Pond, Cascade Pass, Wilmington Notch and Hurricane Pass, all a short drive from Basecamp in Keene Valley. Our programs utilize a variety of this easily accessible terrain to take advantage of multiple aspects and elevations.

Brooks steps out of Quadrophenia (II 5.7)

Just down the road at the edge of the Champlain Valley, Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain is a destination in itself. While the sounds of the neaby Northway are a constant companion, the concentration of high-quality, moderate and hard multi-pitch rock, ice and mixed climbs more than make up for the intrusion. Poke-O's five-hundred foot high south face slabs offer a selection of sunny, multi-pitch friction climbs, while the steeper and extensive six-hundred foot high eastern face hosts more than a dozen high quality crack climbs, water-ice columns and traditional mixed routes.

Per exits Italian Traverse- Neurosis (III 5.7 WI4+)

 

 

South of Keene Valley, Roger's Rock slides right into Lake George and remains a uniquely Adirondack adventure climbing experience, suitable for climbers of all abilities. The five-hundred foot friction slab is accessed by a short paddle in canoe or kayaks. A narrow ledge at waterline provides a comfortable base to climb the easy and classic Little Finger crack, sample more moderate friction routes or take a refreshing swim at the end of the day.

Jesse raps Roger's Rock

 

Wallface Mt., south end

Wallface Mountain deep in Indian Pass is renowned as the East’s premier big wilderness cliff and is a must-do experience for any alpine or adventure climber. With a five mile approach and a thousand foot face, Wallface has a dozen routes- including a handful of select classics on incredibly coarse anorthosite in a true wilderness setting. Most routes can be done round-trip in a moderately paced twelve hour day, or a comfortable and scenic camp below the cliff in Indian Pass can be used for a more relaxed multi-day outing.

Gothic's North Face in summer

Gothics is the region's most impressive mountain, with steep exposed rock faces on multiple aspects all guarded by a lengthy approach into the High Peaks Wilderness. The moderate ice and snow on Gothic's North Face is one of the region’s best winter backcountry and expedition prep climbs, including a six-mile approach to an imposing cirque with a uniquely alpine feel. In the right springtime conditions, the North Face basin can be fantastic ski terrain too. The steeper and more expansive friction and face climbing in the cirque on the South Face of Gothics, while harder to get to, is perhaps the High Peak's most aesthetic climbing terrain.

Avalanche Flake basecamp

Protected by a rolling five mile approach on foot, skis or snowshoes, Avalanche Lake is the centerpiece of the High Peaks region and the premier destination for true wilderness cragging in either season. For the adventurous climber there are quality multi-pitch crack routes, serious thin-ice climbs and long alpine gullies.

High above the John's Brook Valley, Big Slide Mountain offers yet more friction and face climbing on fine grained rock. With a (relatively) modest three mile approach and incredible views across the valley, Big Slide is an ideal introduction to the backcountry.

Emilie avoiding a Freudian Slip (II 5.9), Big Slide Mt.